Publisher: Amy Marson

Creative Director: Gailen Runge

Acquisitions Editor: Roxane Cerda

Managing Editor: Liz Aneloski

Editor: Lynn Koolish

Technical Editor: Linda Johnson

Cover/Book Designer: April Mostek

Production Coordinator: Tim Manibusan

Production Editor: Alice Mace Nakanishi

Illustrators: Becky Goldsmith and Linda Johnson

Photo Assistant: Mai Yong Vang

Photography by Mai Yong Vang of C&T Publishing, Inc., unless otherwise noted

Published by C&T Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549

Dedication

I saw a photo of an antique Bullseye quilt many, many years ago in the book Glorious American Quilts by Elizabeth V. Warren and Sharon L. Eisenstat, published by the Museum of American Folk Art in 1996. Of all the quilts in the book, the Bullseye stayed with me.

I came upon the photo again in 2016 and had an Ah ha! moment. I could finally see how to make my own Bullseye quilt—oh, happy day!

I am a reasonably skilled draftsman, but this pattern pushed me to the limit. I would have given up except that I really, really wanted to make this quilt. To this day, I don’t know how the original maker did it, and my hat goes off to this unknown quilter and to so many other quilters who left us their legacy of amazing quilts. Thank you so much!

Introduction

This quilt is easy to make—I promise! Sew on a solid line and piece with an accurate ¼˝ seam allowance, and you will have great success.

As I worked on the first quilt, Blue Bullseye, I realized that I could stop at any ring and make a smaller quilt or a smaller block. Once I figured that out, I couldn’t stop. In fact, if I hadn’t had to stop and write this pattern, there would be more than three quilts.

So, fair warning, you may not be able to make just one Bullseye quilt.

General Instructions

note

To ensure your success, I encourage you to follow the directions for foundation paper piecing in this pattern, even if you have used a different method in the past.

Fabric

FABRIC PREPARATION

Prewash your fabric to wash out excess dye, finishes, and sizing, and to shrink the cotton fabric.

ABOUT THE FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

Fabric requirements are based on a 40˝ width and include a little extra for shrinkage from prewashing.

COLOR AND DESIGN

Because of the way the rings are constructed, you can’t mock up the quilt (or blocks) on your design wall. However, you can audition your fabric choices to see how they work together.

It is the contrast between the colors and values in each ring that makes this pattern so dynamic. I looked at the vintage quilt and noted the placement of lights and darks, and then I chose my fabric. I pinned enough of each fabric on my design wall, so that I could see how they worked together.

I encourage you to color your quilt differently from mine. Make sure to keep enough contrast between the colors and values of your fabrics to make the pattern visible.

Blue Bullseye fabrics on design wall

About Foundation Paper Piecing

PREPARE THE FOUNDATION PAPERS

Foundation paper piecing is faster and more precise when you can see through the paper, and that is why I use translucent vellum, such as Simple Foundations Translucent Vellum Paper (by C&T Publishing).

1. Make the required number of copies of each Center and Ring for your project (see Fabric Requirements and Cutting). (For Bullseye Center and Ring patterns, go to: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download.)

2. Cut out the foundation paper-piecing patterns on the outer dashed lines.

Cut foundation paper-piecing patterns on outer dashed lines.

3. Keep the foundation papers for each Center and Ring together with clips or in plastic bags.

 TIP: Staples Are Your Friend 

I learned this from a student who probably learned it from Judy Niemeyer, who is a very talented quilter.

If your copies are precise, staple 2–4 of the same page together in several places to keep the pages from shifting so you can cut several pages at the same time. Cutting through multiple pages at once saves time.

MAKE THE CORNER TEMPLATES

Choose the corner pattern that fits your project. (For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download)

1. Tape the pattern sheet to a table to keep it flat and in place as you work.

2. Cover the corner pattern you need with self-adhesive laminating sheets. Let the edges of the laminate sheets overlap. Refer to Using Self-Adhesive Laminating Sheets.

3. Cut out the template along the center of the outer dashed line.

4. Carefully store the remaining patterns in case you need them later.

 TIP: Using Self-Adhesive Laminating Sheets 

Tape the corner pattern sheet to the table to keep it flat and in place.

I prefer Essential Self-Adhesive Laminating Sheets (by C&T Publishing). It will take 14–20 sheets (2 packages of the 9˝ × 12˝ sheets) to cover all the corner patterns, depending on how you place the laminate on the paper.

After you peel the backing sheet off of the self-adhesive laminating sheet, hold it sticky side down, above the right side of the pattern sheet, cupping the laminate in your hands. As you move the laminate toward the paper, don’t pause. Place the laminate on the paper in a smooth, steady motion. Overlap sheets of laminate until the pattern is covered. If you hold the laminate flat and close to the paper, the two can jump together, causing wrinkles in the paper.

Cup laminate to apply in smooth, steady motion.

Sewing and Construction Basics

SEAM ALLOWANCES

All machine piecing is designed for ¼˝ seam allowances.

SEWING ON FOUNDATION PAPER

Always sew on the solid line, with the printed side of the paper up, facing you and the fabric next to the feed dogs. If the solid seamline goes to the edges of paper, sew to the edge of the paper. If the solid line stops at a circle, backstitch.

Sew with printed side up.

 TIP 

Construct one complete ring at a time. Look to see how your fabric choices are working and make changes if necessary.

1. Photocopy onto vellum the number of paper-piecing patterns needed for your project (see Number of 8½˝ × 11˝ Vellum Copies). Compare the copies to the original to be certain that your copies are accurate. (For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download)

2. Cut out each paper pattern along the outer dashed line. Do not leave excess paper around your foundation papers.

3. Sew with strong, fine, cotton thread. I use 50-weight Masterpiece (by Superior Threads) or 50-weight cotton Mako thread (by Aurifil).

4. Use a large needle (size 90/14) in the sewing machine and it will be easier to remove the papers. Sew with a shorter-than-normal stitch length: 18–20 stitches per inch (1.5–1.8), depending on your machine.

 TIPS: Sewing 

•  The paper prevents the top and bobbin threads from pulling together tightly. A shorter stitch results in stitches that are less easily pulled apart when you remove the paper.

•  Clean away the paper debris and oil the bobbin area every time you change the bobbin.

5. Place fabrics 1 and 2 right sides together, matching one long raw edge of each.

Place the fabric pair under the vellum. Be sure that the wrong side of fabric 1 is centered under space 1 on the paper. Line up the edges of both fabrics with the dashed line that runs through space 2.

Place fabrics right sides together; line up edges with dashed line.

6. Sew on the solid line between spaces 1 and 2 with the paper right side up.

7. When the end of a seamline is marked with a circle, stop at the end of the line and backstitch.

Backstitch at circles.

8. Press open with an iron or use a wooden seam press. Be careful not to stretch the fabric.

Press.

9. Fold the paper back along the next dashed line between spaces 2 and 3—not the solid line. A postcard or bookmark speeds up the folding.

Fold along next dashed line.

10. Carefully cut away the excess fabric with a rotary cutter or scissors. Be careful not to cut your fingers. If you nick the paper, repair it with clear tape.

Cut away excess fabric.

11. Center and place strip 3 right sides together with the raw edge at the far side of fabric 2. Be sure that, when sewn and pressed open, the new strip completely covers space 3 on the paper.

Make sure new strip completely covers next space on paper.

 TIP 

Using a rotary cutter without a ruler is dangerous. If you don’t want to live dangerously, a safer option is to cut away the excess fabric with scissors.

Or you can fold the paper on the solid line and use a ruler and rotary cutter to cut a ¼˝ seam allowance.

12. Sew strip 3 in place, press, and trim as before. Continue adding strips in this manner until the paper is covered.

A foundation pattern covered with fabric is a ring section. Make one to be sure your fabric placement is correct, and then chain piece the remaining sections in the ring.

13. Trim away any fabric that sticks out beyond the edges of the paper.

14. Remove the paper when indicated (see Removing the Papers).

Trim away excess fabric.

CONSTRUCT THE CENTER USING POSITIONING PINS

Use positioning pins to accurately match seam intersections and points.

1. Every block begins with a center. Place 2 completed Center sections right sides together. Push a long pin straight through the center point of both sections. Keep the positioning pin perpendicular to the sections.

Keep pin perpendicular.

2. Pin the sections together on each side of the positioning pin.

Pin on both sides of positioning pin.

3. Sew the sections together on the solid line.

4. Use positioning pins in this manner to match seam intersections and points.

CONSTRUCT THE RINGS

Rings 3 and 5 have straight sides that are easy to match and sew together. The remaining rings have angled sides that require more attention. There are 2 sewing options to join sections with angled sides.

Always sew sections together on the inner point seamline. Look for a small circle located at a seam intersection on the pattern. That is the inner point of the seamline. Sew with that side of the paper right side up, facing you.

Construction Option 1

1. Tear the paper in the seam allowance at the inner point on all papers.

Tear paper at inner point.

2. Place 2 sections right sides together. Use a positioning pin to line up the circled inner point with the outer point of the next section. Pin the sections together.

3. Sew to the circle and backstitch. Take the sewn pair out of the sewing machine.

4. Bend the top section as needed and bring the remaining seamlines together. Pin them together.

Bring seamlines together.

5. Begin with a backstitch to the circle, and then sew to the end of the seamline.

Begin with backstitch.

6. Remove the papers from the seam allowance (see Removing the Papers).

7. Press the seam allowances in the direction indicated by the arrows on the paper.

Press as indicated.

8. Continue in this manner, sewing ever larger sections together into pairs, until the ring is complete.

Construction Option 2

This method is faster, but your points may not be as sharp.

1. Place 2 sections right sides together. Use a positioning pin to line up the circled inner point with the outer point of the other section. Pin the sections together.

2. Sew to the circle and stop with the needle. Lift the presser foot.

3. Bend the top section as needed and bring the remaining seamlines together and hold them in place.

Bring seamlines together.

4. Lower the presser foot and sew to the end of the solid seamline.

5. Remove the papers from the seam allowance (see Removing the Papers).

6. Press the seam allowances in the direction indicated by the arrows on the paper.

7. Continue in this manner, sewing ever larger sections together into pairs, until the ring is complete.

REMOVING THE PAPERS

Remove Paper from Seam Allowances

1. Always remove the paper in the ¼˝ seam allowances after sewing sections together. If stitches cross the paper inside the ¼˝ seam allowance, pop the paper free or tear it along the perforations.

Remove paper from seam allowances.

2. Crease the paper along the stitched seam then tear the paper seam allowance free. Turn the pair over and repeat on the other side.

Crease paper and tear.

 TIP 

Use tweezers to remove stray bits of paper from hard-to-reach areas.

Remove Paper from the Center and Rings

The Rings will lie flat when the paper has been removed.

note

Leave the paper attached to the Center until Ring 1 has been sewn to it. Then remove the outer ¼˝ seam allowance, followed by the remaining paper.

1. Gently remove paper from each ring as you complete it. Do not pop, pull, or stretch the fabric out of shape.

Gently remove paper.

2. I used a ballpoint awl and tweezers to loosen paper from seams and remove bits of paper from stubborn areas.

Use ballpoint awl and tweezers to remove bits of paper.

3. Gently press the ring from the back, with steam, after you remove the papers.

PRESSING SEAM ALLOWANCES

1. When you sew sections together to form the Center or Rings, press the seam allowances in the direction indicated by the arrows on the foundation papers.

2. The 8 seam allowances that meet when the 2 Center sections are sewn together flow around the center point. Loosen the stitches within the seam allowances at the center so that you can twirl the fabric. Press from the back.

Twirl seams to reduce bulk.

3. As you sew additional Rings to the block, press seam allowances in the direction that is easiest and lays the flattest. Press from the back, and then the front.

Making Blocks and Quilts

CONSTRUCT THE BLOCKS

You will notice right away that the Center is bigger than the hole in Ring 1. The ¼˝ seam allowances overlap, making it look like they won’t go together. But when you match the raw edges, they do fit. It’s like magic!

Center seems like it won’t fit.

MATCHING SHORT LINES AND POINTS

The Center and Rings all have points that match other points in the ring that follows. However, there are exceptions when points don’t line up with each other but instead fall somewhere along a triangle’s baseline. In those cases, short lines on the foundation patterns indicate where to match points. You can find these short lines on the patterns for the Center and for Rings 3 and 5.

Some points fall between seams.

Only the Center will still have its paper attached when you pin Ring 1 to it. You will be able to see the short lines and where to match points.

In the case of Rings 3 and 5, they will have their papers removed before you sew them in place (see Sew Rings in Place). To mark the short lines for these rings, make an extra paper pattern for each of these rings and cut them along the sewing line. Use this pattern to mark the short lines in the seam allowances on the wrong side of the fabric, all the way around the ring.

Mark lines on wrong side of fabric.

PIN RINGS IN PLACE

Always pin with the inside circle of the ring on top.

1. The Center and Rings all have top, bottom, right, and left compass points. Refer to the photo of the quilt or to the quilt assembly diagram for your project to see where these points fall. Mark them with a pin.

2. Place Ring 1 over the Center with right sides up and align the pins.

Align Ring 1 over Center.

3. Carefully fold the Ring over the Center at the compass point pins, bringing the raw edges together.

Match compass point to compass point.

4. Gently work the raw edges together between the 4 pinned compass points. Use positioning pins (see Construct the Center Using Positioning Pins) and as many pins as needed to hold the raw edges together smoothly.

 TIP 

Ring 1 is the smallest and hardest to pin. Take your time and think calm thoughts. As the rings get bigger they are much easier to handle.

SEW RINGS IN PLACE

Always sew with the largest ring on top.

1. Place the Center flat on the bed of your sewing machine.

Sew with largest ring on top.

2. Watch your ¼˝ seam allowance as you slowly sew. Don’t try to pull the fabric straight in front of the presser foot. Let it flow into place, following the circular edge.

3. Use a tool as necessary to hold raw edges even and the seam allowances flat as you sew over them. Do not let seam allowances flip out of position.

 TIP 

Use tweezers as needed to gently pull the raw edges even.

4. Press seam allowances in the direction in which they lie the flattest (see Pressing Seam Allowances).

SEW CORNERS TO THE BLOCK

1. Refer to the project instructions, and cut the correct corner rectangles.

2. Place the template in a corner, right side up on top of a fabric rectangle.

3. Trace around the short and curved edges of the template. Repeat for the opposite corner of the rectangle.

Trace around template.

4. Cut out the corners, along the inside edge of the drawn lines. You can use a rotary cutter, but be careful not cut your fingers or the template.

5. Sew the corners right sides together along the shortest sides. Press seam allowances in one direction.

Sew corner pieces together.

6. Fold each corner fabric between the seams to find the diagonal centers. Mark the diagonal centers with a pin.

Find and mark diagonal centers.

7. Refer to Pin Rings in Place. On the outer edge of the circle block, place a pin at the top, bottom, left and right compass points. Then mark the diagonal centers (between the first 4 pins) with a pin.

8. Place the round block right side up. Place the sewn corners right side up over it, aligning compass points and marking pins.

9. Fold the corner fabric over the block at the marking pins, bringing it right sides together with the circle block. Pin together the top, bottom, both sides, and the diagonal centers.

10. Gently move the edge of the corner fabric even with the edge of the round block and finish pinning.

Pin all around.

11. Sew the corners in place.

12. Press the seam allowances toward the corners.

Fabric Requirements and Cutting

You can stop at any ring to make quilts and blocks in a variety of sizes.

The yardage requirements for each Ring are listed separately to give you more flexibility so you can design your own quilts. You can repeat fabrics to add visual continuity or use a variety of fabrics for interest. For example, I used the same Light (white) and Medium (gray) throughout Blue Bullseye, but I used different blues. If you repeat fabrics, add the yardage amounts together to find the total amount of yardage.

 TIP 

The space numbers listed for each Ring correspond to the space numbers on the foundation papers.

Each numbered space also has a suggested value (such as Light, Medium, or Dark). Sometimes space 1 is Light in one ring and Dark in another ring. Always double-check the foundation paper when you choose and cut your fabric.

Fabric and Cutting—Center and Rings

* WOF = width of fabric

Fabric and Cutting—Corners

Add corners to any Ring to make a quilt or blocks in a variety of sizes. Cut 2 corners per rectangle.

* WOF = width of fabric

Number of 8½˝ × 11˝ Vellum Copies

Before you begin, read
General Instructions.

Blue Bullseye

Finished quilt: 60˝ × 60˝

Materials

FABRIC

Blue Bullseye is made with blue, white, tan, and gray fabrics. As the rings get bigger, they require more fabric. I used a variety of fabrics, and if you choose to do the same, refer to the two fabric and cutting charts to see how much of each fabric you need in each ring. Combine yardage amounts if you repeat the same fabric in different positions.

Combined yardage according to fabric value:

White / Light: 3⅛ yards

Gray / Medium: 2¾ yards

Tan / Light medium: 1⅝ yards

Blue / Dark: 4¾ yards

Accent blue / Medium dark: 1⅛ yards

Binding: 1 yard

Backing and sleeve: 4 yards

Batting: 68˝ × 68˝

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

Translucent vellum paper:

76 sheets to make foundation papers (I prefer Simple Foundations Translucent Vellum Paper by C&T Publishing; use 3 packages.)

Self-adhesive laminating sheets:

8 sheets to make corner template (I prefer Essential Self-Adhesive Laminating Sheets by C&T Publishing; use 1 package.)

Cutting

To prepare fabric for the Center, Rings 1–7, and Ring 7 Corners, refer to Fabric Requirements and Cutting.

Binding: Cut 1 square 30˝ × 30˝ to make a 2½˝-wide continuous bias strip 260˝ long. (Go to ctpub.com > scroll down to Support: Quiltmaking Basics and Sewing Tips > Continuous Bias Binding.)

Quilt Assembly

Refer to About Foundation Paper Piecing, Sewing and Construction Basics, and Making Blocks and Quilts.

1. Prepare the foundation papers (see Number of 8½˝ × 11˝ Vellum Copies), and Make the Corner Templates.

2. Sew your selected fabrics to the foundation papers.

3. Construct the rings and sew them together. Remove the foundation paper as indicated.

4. Cut and sew the corners to the quilt.

5. Prepare the backing, layer, and baste. Bind using your preferred binding technique. (For finishing techniques, refer to ctpub.com > scroll down to Support: Quiltmaking Basics and Sewing Tips > Continuous Bias Binding.)

Quilt assembly. (Note: Baby Bullseye, extends to Ring 5.)

Before you begin, read
General Instructions.

Baby Bullseye

Finished quilt: 40˝ × 40˝

Fabrics by Alison Glass from the Chroma and Handcrafted collections with a background of Text in Charcoal

Materials

FABRIC

My Baby Bullseye is in white, gold, red, pink, purple, green, and orange. As the rings get bigger, they require more fabric. I prefer to use a variety of fabrics; if you choose to do so as well, refer to the two fabric and cutting charts to see how much of each fabric you need in each ring and to the Flying Geese yardage (below). Combine yardage amounts if you repeat the same fabric in different positions.

Combined yardage according to color:

White: 2⅞ yards

Gold: 1 yard

Various colors (wherever red, pink, purple, green, and orange appears): 2¾ yards total

Flying Geese border:

Large triangles and border corners: ½ yard

Small background triangles: ⅝ yard

Binding: ¾ yard

Backing and sleeve: 2⅔ yards

Batting: 48˝ × 48˝

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

Translucent vellum paper:

34 sheets to make foundation papers (I prefer Simple Foundations Translucent Vellum Paper by C&T Publishing; use 2 packages.)

Self-adhesive laminating sheets:

5 sheets to make corner template (I prefer Essential Self-Adhesive Laminating Sheets by C&T Publishing; use 1 package.)

Cutting

WOF= width of fabric

Center, rings, and corners: Prepare fabric to make a Center, Rings 1–5, and Ring 5 Corners.

Large Flying Geese border triangles and border corners: Cut 6 strips 2½˝ × WOF; subcut 144 rectangles 1½˝ × 2½˝ and 4 squares 2½˝ × 2½˝.

Small border triangles: Cut 12 strips 1½˝ × WOF; subcut 288 squares 1½˝ × 1½˝.

Binding: Cut 1 square 26˝ × 26˝ to make a 2½˝-wide continuous bias strip 180˝ long. (Go to ctpub.com > scroll down to Support: Quiltmaking Basics and Sewing Tips > Continuous Bias Binding.)

Quilt Assembly

Refer to About Foundation Paper Piecing, Sewing and Construction Basics, and Making Blocks and Quilts.

1. Prepare the foundation papers to make 1 Center and Rings 1–5 (see Number of 8½˝ × 11˝ Vellum Copies).

2. Make the Corner template for Ring 5 (see Make the Corner Templates).

3. Sew your selected fabrics to the foundation papers.

4. Construct the rings and sew them together. Remove the foundation paper as indicated.

5. Cut and then sew the corners to the quilt.

FLYING GEESE BORDER

1. Cut the Flying Geese strips and background squares as directed.

2. Lightly draw a fine diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the squares, or use The Tape Trick.

3. Place 1 square on a corner of a goose rectangle, right sides together. Sew on the diagonal line.

Draw then sew on diagonal line.

4. Trim away the excess fabric and press the seam allowances toward the corner.

Trim excess.

5. Place a second square on the other corner, right sides together. Sew on the diagonal line.

Repeat on second side.

6. Trim away the excess fabric and press the seam allowances toward the corner.

Flying Geese block

 TIP: The Tape Trick 

Place a piece of painter’s tape on the bed of your sewing machine with the left side of the tape in line with the needle. Let the tape extend from near the needle to the front edge of your table, at a 90° angle.

Place the square on the strip, right sides together. Place one corner point at the needle and the opposite point on the left edge of the tape.

Sew, being sure to keep the front point of fabric on the edge of the tape. As you sew, focus on the point of the square, not the needle.

After you trim the excess fabric, press, and position the next square on the tape.

7. Make 144 Flying Geese blocks.

8. Refer to the quilt assembly diagram and place the blocks and border corner squares around the quilt. Be sure the color placement suits you.

9. Sew 36 Flying Geese blocks together to make a border strip. Repeat to make 4 border strips. Press the seam allowances toward the large triangle points.

10. Be sure the Flying Geese borders are pointing in the correct direction. Sew a side border strip to each side of the quilt. Press the seam allowances toward the quilt.

Border assembly

11. Sew a border corner square to each end of the top and bottom border strips. Press the seam allowances toward the squares.

12. Sew the top and bottom borders to the quilt. Press seam allowances toward the quilt.

13. Prepare the backing, layer, and baste. Bind using your preferred binding technique. (For finishing techniques, go to ctpub.com > scroll down to Support: Quiltmaking Basics and Sewing Tips.)

Before you begin, read
General Instructions.

Nine-Block Bullseye

Finished block: 20˝ × 20˝ • Finished quilt: 68˝ × 68˝

Fabrics provided by Alison Glass from Chroma and Indigo Handcrafted collections, Text in Charcoal, and Sun Print 2017.

Materials

FABRIC

For 9 different blocks: If each of your blocks is made from different fabrics, refer to the Fabric and Cutting—Center and Rings for yardage requirements. You will need 9 of each of the following: Centers, Ring 1, Ring 2, and Ring 2 Corners. Combine yardage amounts if you repeat the same fabric in different positions.

For 9 identical blocks: If your blocks are identical, use the charts below. If you repeat fabrics, add the yardage amounts together to find the total amount for repeated fabrics.

Fabric and Cutting—Nine-Block Bullseye

* WOF = width of fabric

Fabric and Cutting—Nine-Block Bullseye Corners

Cut 2 corners per rectangle.

* WOF = width of fabric

Number of 8½˝ × 11˝ Vellum Copies—Nine-Block Bullseye

Flying Geese border:

Large triangles: 1⅛ yard

Small triangles: 1¼ yard (Can be added to the Ring 2 Corner yardage.)

Binding: 1 yard

Backing and sleeve: 4⅓ yards

Batting: 76˝ × 76˝

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

Translucent vellum paper: 79 sheets to make foundation papers (I prefer Simple Foundations Translucent Vellum Paper by C&T Publishing; use 3 packages.)

Self-adhesive laminating sheets: 4 sheets to make corner template (I prefer Essential Self-Adhesive Laminating Sheets by C&T Publishing; use 1 package.)

Cutting

WOF= width of fabric

Centers, rings, and corners: Refer to the Nine-Block Bullseye charts and prepare fabric for 9 each of Centers, Rings 1, Rings 2, and Ring 2 Corners.

Large Flying Geese border triangles: Cut 8 strips 4½˝ × WOF; subcut 128 rectangles 2½˝ × 4½˝.

Small Flying Geese border triangles: Cut 16 strips 2½˝ × WOF; subcut 256 squares 2½˝ × 2½˝.

Binding: Cut 1 square 30˝ × 30˝ to make a 2½˝-wide continuous bias strip 300˝ long. (See ctpub.com > scroll down to Support: Quiltmaking Basics and Sewing Tips > Continuous Bias Binding.)

Quilt Assembly

Refer to About Foundation Paper Piecing, Sewing and Construction Basics, and Making Blocks and Quilts.

1. Prepare the foundation papers to make 9 each of Centers, Ring 1, and Ring 2 (see Number of 8½˝ × 11˝ Vellum Copies—Nine-Block Bullseye).

2. Make the Corner template for Ring 2 (see Make the Corner Templates).

3. Sew the selected fabrics to the foundation papers.

4. Construct the rings and sew them together. Remove the foundation papers when indicated.

5. Cut and then sew the corners to each block.

6. Refer to the quilt assembly diagram and sew the blocks together into rows. Press the seam allowances in alternate directions so the seams nest when you sew the rows together.

7. Sew the rows together to form the center of the quilt. Press the seam allowances toward the bottom of the quilt.

8. Refer to Flying Geese Border. Make 128 blocks 2½˝ × 4½˝.

9. Place the Flying Geese around the quilt. Be sure the color placement suits you and the triangles are pointing in the correct direction.

10. Sew 30 Flying Geese blocks together to make 4 border strips. Press the seam allowances toward the large triangle points.

11. Sew together the 2 Flying Geese blocks in each border corner to make a square. Check the orientation of the triangles and sew a border corner square to each end of the top and bottom border strips.

12. Sew a side border strip to each side of the quilt. Press the seam allowances toward the quilt.

13. Sew the top and bottom borders to the quilt. Press the seam allowances toward the quilt.

14. Prepare the backing, layer, and baste. Bind using your preferred binding technique. (For finishing techniques, refer to ctpub.com > scroll down to Support: Quiltmaking Basics and Sewing Tips.)

Quilt assembly

About the Author

Becky Goldsmith grew up in Oklahoma and met her husband, Steve, at the University of Oklahoma. They married in 1978, at the end of their senior year, and they are still happy together.

Their two sons, Chris and Jeff, are grown and married to Lorna and Celia, respectively. Becky and Steve have grandchildren and are having fun watching them grow up.

Designing and making quilts and teaching others how to make quilts is a better career than Becky could ever have imagined. She thinks quilters are wonderful people and loves being a part of the global quilt world. She thanks you for including her in your quilting life!

Other pattern packs by Becky Goldsmith:

Find Becky online at
pieceocake.com

For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download

For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download

For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download

For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download

For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11326-patterns-download

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Bullseye Quilts from Vintage to Modern Download

Copyright © 2018 by C&T Publishing, Inc.

ISBN 978-1-61745-762-3

Published by C&T Publishing, Inc.,
PO Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549.
www.ctpub.com

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Pattern Note: This digital file contains patterns that may not print true to size and may require sizing adjustments (inchmarks are included on patterns for reference). Depending on your viewing application or device, printing desired page may result in multiple printed pages.

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